
Habana Vieja 18.01.2014 - At nightfall, the picturesque Plaza de la Catedral in the heart of Old Havana is full of wonderful scents coming form the many restaurants crowded with tourists and serving delicious fish dishes. Lobsters pass under my nose and I wonder whether this dish, that I immediately associate with the Caribbean, is common for Cubans. M. corrects me: “Only for some Cubans”. He explains that on the Island it is considered a sophisticated dish and it can be bought only with the “strong currency”. The double currency system caused many disparities in Cuban society between those who had access to the strong one – mainly in the tourist sector or through remittances from relatives living abroad – and those who continued to earn in moneda nacional. Consequently a whole new “class” of “rich Cubans” was born, in a country supposedly without social classes. These people take advantage of the benefits of Cuban society (in particular free education and health care), but have a much higher lifestyle compared to the national average. He points at a group of people in a luxurious restaurant: there are not only tourists but also Cubans.